The TUDOR Boutique, Manchester, are proud to exhibit three rare Submariner references. Generously loaned to the boutique from TUDOR UK, the pieces will be on display for a limited time only.
There is no better proof of quality for a tool intended for professionals than its adoption by organisations whose main activities push the use of the item to its ultimate limits. Acclaimed throughout their long history by the Marine Nationale Française (MN), the US Navy (USN) and other important military organisations throughout the world, which used them to equip their elite personnel, TUDOR Submariners thus extended their reputation for quality and robustness.
The TUDOR divers’ watches delivered to these military organisations were neither custom designed nor specially developed. They were just references listed in the catalogue, which these organisations chose.
As a rule, their only distinction was an engraving on the screw-down case back. Thus, for example the TUDOR Submariners used by the Marine nationale française bear the initials M.N. accompanied by the last two digits of the year in which they were delivered.
Since they were used intensely in extremely harsh conditions for many years, it is very rare that examples surviving to this day are in perfect condition. However, the relative rarity of these watches, their respective stories and the world of visions they evoke, make them a highly prized collection theme.
Here are detailed descriptions of the references available to view at the TUDOR Boutique, Manchester
In 1959, with the advent of reference 7928, TUDOR for the first time proposed the principle of guards to protect the winding crown from shocks. The variations in the execution of this protection were an illustration of the dynamic continuous evolution of the same reference, very characteristic of the first-generation TUDOR Submariners. Reference 7928, shown here and produced in 1959, presented the second evolution of the square crown guard, the pointed crown guard or “Cornino”, as they are called by collectors.
With these new protections, the size of the crown used would now be 6 mm. The case measured 39 mm in diameter, was waterproof to a depth of 200 metres and bore the signature “ORIGINAL OYSTER CASE BY ROLEX GENEVA”. The design of its dial, hands and bezel was similar to that of references 7922, 7924 and 7925. Its movement was the self-winding Calibre 390, just as for all the TUDOR Oyster Prince Submariners in the 7900 series.
In 1969, the reference 7016 introduced a new aesthetic in the brand’s range that became the signature of TUDOR diving watches. A combination of square indexes, painted with luminous material, and angular hands later nicknamed “Snowflake” by collectors because of the similarity to the form of a snowflake. This new design allowed for more luminous material to be applied to the dials and hands, thus resulting in a longer duration of illumination, a key improvement for the French Navy divers.
In 1974, the reference 7016 was also the first TUDOR diving watch to bear the famous “TUDOR M.N.” engravings. Composed of the initials M.N. and the year of issue in numbers, these markings have reached close to iconic status and are sought after relentlessly by collectors of military watches.
The TUDOR Prince Oysterdate Submariner reference 7021 appeared at the same time as the 7016, but in addition offered a calendar function at 3 o’clock. Its Cyclops-type Plexiglas crystal was the same type as that of its contemporary. In addition, it included a magnifying lens placed over the date aperture for easier reading. The example presented here has a black dial with so-called “snowflakes” hour markers and hands.
Its date disc was two-coloured: black for the uneven numbers and red for the even numbers. The movement of reference 7021 was the self-winding ETA calibre 2484 with a date disc, polished decorations and circular Côtes de Genève finishings. Its bracelet was the Oyster-type reference 7836 with folding links and the Rolex signature.
If you would like to view and learn more about these pieces, our team of TUDOR ambassadors stand ready to welcome you to our Manchester TUDOR Boutique. Click HERE to book an appointment.
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